Flat Tire Repair - How to patch a tire or Change a tire

Tire Repair comes in many forms depending on the type of problem you are having with your tires. To learn more about different tire repairs, read some of the articles listed below.

Flat Tire Repair

Flat Tire Repair - How to patch a tire or Change a tire. Learn what you need to know about tires, how to patch holes in tires, which tire repair products you should keep in your car, and how to change a flat tire.

We have almost all experienced a flat tire or leaking tire at the worst time. Well, is there ever a good time to have tire problems? The best you can hope for is to be prepared when this unfortunate event happens. Having the right tools and products to overcome a flat tire wherever you may be can at least improve your bad situation. There are however some tire problems that have no easy fix, and require tire replacement.

This may help you identify if a tire can be fixed or will require replacement. Most tire leaks can be repaired quickly and easily, but certain tire problems can only be repaired by replacing the tire. Among the tire problems that require replacing a tire are: bulging lumps on the tire, exposed cables or banding, rips in sidewalls, dry-rot cracks, separating cap or re-tread, and damaged rims. Also included are holes in the sidewalls or curve where the sidewall meets the tread. However, with these last tire problems, there is a chance for temporary tire repair that may help you get in to a tire repair shop if you drive slowly.

Things you should keep in your car to fix flat tires.
As tire leaks and flats occur, and most leaks can be repaired or temporarily fixed on location, it is important to have emergency tire repair tools and products with you. Some of the most common tire repair/replacement tools or products to keep available are: a spare tire, suitable jack, 4-way lug wrench, tire iron, tire stop. These are necessary to change a tire and get moving again, but are often not available or not enough. You may have more than one damaged tire after driving over nails or screws. In this event, you may need to patch one or more tires before you can get to a tire repair shop. In addition to these common tire replacement tools and equipment, you should keep tire repair tools and products available for emergency tire repairs. These include: a small air compressor, valve tool and valves, 3 inch tire patches, two tire irons or flat bars or large flat screwdrivers, a hammer, 10-15 foot length of strong rope, tire rasp and plug kit with plenty of plugs, Vaseline or assembly lube, a razor blade, pliers, and a spray bottle with soapy water. You may also want a valve stem tool and replacement valve stems. These should allow you to repair or replace most tire problems, and take less space than carrying multiple spare tires.

Plugging the hold with a temporary tire repair is the fastest way to get back on the road and get to a tire repair shop to fix tire leaks when you don't have a spare tire or the ability to change tires. If you can, changing the tire is the fastest and most reliable method. However, temporary patches or plugs do not work well in sidewalls or the curve where sides meet tread due to the constant flexing of these locations. If you must, you can try patching these spots, but it is not recommended. Later in this article, we will discuss an option for these locations that is more likely to work and get you to the tire repair shop.

When you drive over a nail and puncture the tire in the tread area, and need to temporarily patch the tire, this can be done with a tire plug kit. Tire plug kits contain a tire rasp, a funny looking tool to install the plug, and generally self-adhesive plugs. You will need these items, a razor blade, and an air compressor. You may also need the spray bottle with soapy water and pliers.

Use the spray bottle to wet the tire and watch for bubbles to locate the leak, and if needed, use the pliers to pull the nail or screw from the tire. Use a pencil or even a chalky rock to mark the location of the hole so that you don't lose it.
Get the tire rasp and push it through the hole in the tire. This can require some strength if the hole is small. Move the rasp in and out slightly but not out of the tire to rough-up the sides of the hole. This will help the plug to bond and make it easier to push the plug into the tire. Leave the rasp in the tire until you are ready to install the plug.
The funny looking tool in the tire plug kit is a needle. Generally, the needle has a gap in one side of the loop or eye. This is for feeding the needle or removing it from the tire plug after installation. Get one of the plugs and feed it through the needle to the center of the plug. This allows the plug to fold over and double the thickness while holding the plug secure. Be sure to keep the tire plug clean. Tire plugs are very sticky and will stick to dirt or rocks and make the plug leak when installed because they need to stick to all sides of the hole in your tire.
After the tire plug is ready in the needle, you are ready to plug the tire leak. This process needs done quickly. When you remove the rasp, air in the tire is going to rush out, and you need to insert the plug fully and pull the needle back out of the tire. Don't pull the plug completely out of the tire, but enough to remove the needle from the plug. This should have your tire leak fixed. In some cases, you may need to install more plugs. After installing tire plugs, it is important to use the razor blade to cut the excess plug from the outside of the tire, or it can get caught or stuck and pull you plug loose. So, cut tire plugs flush with the tire. Now, if your plugs are good and you have plugged all leaks in the tire, you can air you tire back up to the correct pressure using the small air compressor. You should find the air pressure specs on the sidewall of the tire, and if your compressor doesn't have a tire pressure gauge, you may also need one in your emergency tools.

Note: This is a temporary tire repair, and you should take it to a tire repair shop to get a patch on the inside of the tire and balancing for a lasting tire repair.

Why you should not use liquid tire repair products
I won't say these product don't work, because they certainly can for various small uses, but they are not a definite fix and often when customers use these products, tire repair shops can't install proper patches or just refuse to work on the tire. These products can ensure you are replacing a tire rather than repairing one.

How to patch holes and leaks in tires

Patching holes and leaks in tires requires installing a tire patch on the inside of the tire, and requires a clean dry surface. This process is best taken to a tire repair shop. They are better equipped, much faster, can complete the repair with balancing the tire, and are generally not expensive. The last one I had done cost about $7.00 and took about ten minutes.

While a tire repair shop is the best option, it is often not available when you are out driving and experience tire problems. Sidewalls of tires and the curve at the edge of the tire sidewall where it meets the tread are not able to be plugged with a tire plug kit due to the constant flexing of the tire sidewalls and where they meet the tire tread. In this situation, you may need to remove the wheel, and take the tire off the rim to patch your tire, and allow mobility to a tire shop for replacement of the damaged tire. Your best option is a wrecker service and tire replacement at a tire shop.

To patch your tire from the inside requires removing the wheel as though changing a tire (covered later), and removing the tire from the rim (covered later). With the tire removed from the rim, you can clean the surface on the inside of the tire where the patch is being placed. The area for a patch must be clean and dry, and depending on the type of patch, you may need to rough the surface for better bonding. In the list above, I mention a 3 in patch, but the last time I had to use this method, all I had was a 3 inch roll of flex tape. It bonds to almost anything, but is a little thin and very stretchy. This makes it good for bicycle tube repairs and for surfaces that flex continuously like the sidewalls of tires. I did however, apply two layers to ensure a better chance of the repair lasting long enough to get to a tire repair shop the next day. After patching your tire leak, you need to install the tire back on the rim and replace the wheel on the car.

Changing a Tire

Where ever possible, changing a tire is the best option for reliable repairs. The process should take a few minutes. You will need to locate your jack, tire iron or lug wrench, the spare tire, and something to block the wheels. Also, set your park brake/emergency brake for added assurance the vehicle don't roll.
Your jack may be located under the hood, under a seat (generally a back seat), or in the trunk area under a service panel. In some cases, there is a service panel on a side wall in the back hatch area. The lug wrench or tire iron may be in the same locations. Spare tires are generally located in plain view on the back, hanging under the vehicle, or in the trunk or back hatch under a service panel. If they are hanging under the truck, you may need the lug wrench, tire iron, or jack handle to lower them. The tool fits through a small hole on or near the bumper. And last a tire stop or a thick rock to place in front of and behind the wheels to prevent movement.

After locating the things you need to change a tire and setting the park brake, you should block the wheels to prevent movement that can allow the vehicle to fall off the jack. Generally, blocking one wheel in front of and behind the same tire is good (just not the tire you are replacing).
Then, you will position your jack under solid frame near the tire you are replacing. Be sure the jack is straight and secure, and lift until jack becomes snug, but not lifting the car. Take a minute to confirm and inspect the jack positioning is suitable and under solid framework. (Narrow jacks like bottle jacks fall over easily and are not recommended for this use. I recommend a good floor jack.)

Now, you need to use the lug wrench to break the lug nuts loose (Not Off) before lifting the car. The lug nuts hold the wheel on the car, and may be behind a hubcap. If so, remove the hubcap with the tire iron and then break the lugs loose. The car must be pressing firmly against the ground during this to prevent tire rotation, and this is why you only break them loose but not loosen them out.
After the lugs are broke loose, use the jack to lift the car to where the tire is barely off the ground (about an inch or two), and remove the jack handle to prevent bumping into it and tipping the jack. Now, you can loosen the lug nuts and remove them and the wheel. Note: Do Not put any part of yourself under the car or too close in the event the car falls. If you need a minute to get the spare tire, you can lay the old tire down and slide it under the wheel mount, but be careful of hitting the jack, and you should never leave a vehicle resting on a jack unattended.
If you have the old wheel under the car, slide it out, and get the spare tire. You will need to look at the position of the lug bolts/studs and rotate the spare tire to line up the holes, and lift the spare tire onto the studs. Be sure to push the wheel all the way back on the studs gently, and start your lug nuts. You may need to reposition the tire to completely tighten the lugs back. Start with the top most lug nut and hand tighten all the way. Then, push the wheel back and install the bottom most lug nut hand tightened all the way. If you need to reposition the tire to get it all the way back, do this now and repeat the tightening of top then bottom lug nuts until you have a good fit. After getting the wheel positioned, install the rest of the lug nuts hand tight.

Now you are ready to tighten the lug nut snug with the lug wrench. This is done by alternating back and forth in a pattern around the wheel. Do Not tighten each nut fully before continuing. This process takes a few passes around the wheel. Start with the top most lug nut and give it a turn to snug the nut. Then, move to the lug nut opposite on the bottom, and give it a turn. Next, move to the lug nut to the right of the first lug nut on the top, and continue this process in a clockwise manor until you finish tightening all lug nuts around the tire. (Always work opposites. If you have 6 or more lugs, you will start top, bottom, left, and right, then the nuts between in a clockwise and alternating fashion).

When you have tightened all lug nuts till the tire is trying to spin, double check positioning that they are all seated correctly. If all is good, you are ready to lower the car, but if you need to reposition the tire, loosen lugs as needed and correct the positioning because the tire can shift under load and cause the lugs to be loose if not well positions, and can result in loss of the wheel while driving.

Re-install the handle in the jack and lower the jack, or locate the hydraulic release screw to lower the jack, but do so slowly. Don't just drop the car. The lugs are not tight. Now, that the tire is secured from rotation against the ground, repeat the process of tightening the lugs firmly in an alternating manor. ( As a general rule, you should hear the metal creek as you give your final tightness.)

Replace you spare tire with the old tire under the car or in the truck and tighten it securely, and put your tools away. You have changed a tire.

Replacing a tire on the rim

In some cases, you may have a good tire or need to repair a tire from the inside, and need to remove and replace a tire on the rim. In this process, you will need to remove the wheel as detailed above in the changing a tire section before you can remove the tire from the rim for replacement or repair. This is not an easy project, and require some strength even with a small tire.

With the wheel off, and ready to remove a tire from the rim, you will need a valve tool, two tire irons; flat bars; or large flat screwdrivers, a hammer, 15 foot of strong rope, assembly lube, new valve or valve stem and stem tool, and an air compressor to complete your removal and replacement of the tire.

Start by using the valve tool to loosen the valve in the tire valve stem enough that it begins to lose air. Don't over loosen the valve as there is a great deal of air pressure behind the valve to bleed off before removal. Allow the air to bleed off, and then remove the valve from the stem. You are now ready to break the seal between the tire and rim. This can be done by compressing the tire near the rim. Use your weight and step here, use the hammer, or use a large clamp like a vice to reduce chances of injury.

With the tire seal broke from the rim, the tire falls loose inside the rim, and you can fit the two tire irons between the tire and rim, and are ready to remove the tire from the rim. You will need to work both sides of the tire off the same side of the rim. Start by using the first tire iron or bar to pry the edge of the tire over the outside of the rim. This is generally best from the back side of the wheel/rim. You will need to press and hold this bar firmly while using the other tire iron to work your way around the wheel lifting the tire out of the rim, and be careful not to pinch yourself. This may require a third bar or screwdriver to get the last bit over the rim. After you get the first side over the rim, lift the tire to where you can catch the tire with the bar and lift the second side of the tire over the rim, and repeat the process to finish removing the tire.

At this point, you can switch tires and begin replacing the tire onto the rim, or perform any needed repairs to the tire. Replacing the tire onto the rim is similar to the removal, but instead of prying to the outside of the rim, you will need to reverse the bars and hook under the rim to pry the tire over the rim and back on.

With the tire back on the rim, you should replace the valve stem and valve at this point before sealing the tire to the rim. The valve stem tool screws onto the valve stem, and you pry against the rim to pull the old stem out. Unscrew the old stem from the tool, and hold your new stem through the rim, and screw the tool onto the new stem. Then, prying against the rim, pull the new stem up into place and remove the tool. Now, using the valve tool, install a new valve in the stem, and you are ready to seal the tire back on the rim.

Getting the tire to seal on the rim is tricky. It is best if you have a high pressure air compressor, but can still be done with a small portable air compressor. You will need to wipe a thin layer of assembly lube or Vaseline around the tire on both sides where it meets the rim, and around the rim on both sides. With the tire standing, wrap the rope around the center of the tire, and tie one end to the tire iron. Then, wrap the rope around each side of the tire iron near the place you tied, and keeping the rope as tight as possible to the tire. Make these wraps twice. This will be under a great deal of pressure, so be careful and hold tight to the bar to prevent it from spinning and hitting you. In this step, you will be twisting this rope to compress the center of the tire. Keep the rope in the center all the way around the tire, and twist as needed to spread the tire. When you are close, secure or hold the bar, position the rim and hit the tire with a hammer around the tread to help spread the tire ( with larger tires, you may need to bounce them as the hammer recoil can be dangerous. ) After the tire and rim are secured or sealed, continue to secure the bar and connect the air compressor to the valve stem and begin airing the tire. Listen for leaks, and reposition and tap with hammer or tighten rope as needed to gain a seal. When the seal is made, the pressure against the rope will increase rapidly. Be prepared to turn off the compressor and relieve pressure on the rope by slowly untwisting. Don't just let it spin. Turn the air back on and continue to untwist as needed until the rope is released, and finish filling the tire with air up to its specified pressure. Then, remove the rope and air compressor, and replace your wheel on the car as detailed above.

Note: You should drive slow to the nearest tire shop to get the tire balanced to reduce vibration and prevent damage even if you used the same tire, as you likely didn't line it with the weights or added weight in a repair.

This article is for information purposes and if you cannot perform the tire repair or replacement safely, you should call a wrecker service and tire shop for assistance.

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Tire Repair Articles

• Tire Wear/Alignment